How to Make Closed Column BHO and Live Resin

how-to-make-Bho-and-live-resinThere’s no denying the facts anymore: dabbing has become the premiere method cannabis consumption among weed connoisseurs. The golden, terpene rich concentrates available on the market today are a vast improvement from the dark, harsh oils that were once mass produced only years ago thanks largely to improvements in commercially available extractions systems.

These “closed loop” systems have not only improved overall quality of products on the market but they also offer much greater safety profile in comparison to the old popular “open blasting” techniques responsible for creating lower quality concentrate (not to mention ‘explosive’ headlines for the newspapers). A simple google search will show that these “closed loop” systems cost thousands of dollars and require special tanks and vacuum pumps but in fact, one can use the same principles to produce very high quality shatter / live resin for a fraction of the price. In this article, we will outline a simple, closed-system method of extracting cannabis to produce the highest quality extracts for under $400.

Disclaimer: The following information is for educational purposes only! Solvent-based cannabis extractions are illegal under federal and local drug lab laws and can be extremely dangerous. Such extractions should only be performed by trained professionals in licensed facilities in compliance with local laws and regulations.

A “closed loop” extraction system is one in which butane is constantly run over resin-rich plant material where it solvates THC, enters a collection chamber, evaporates, and then is re-condensed to be re-run over cannabis again (thus reducing the amount of solvent needed). As a cheaper alternative, we will be electing to use a “pressurized closed soak” method where butane and cannabis will be combined in a closed, pressurized column and allowed to soak for 45 minutes to ensure extraction efficiency. With this method, butane cannot be recycled (it must be evaporated off into the atmosphere, a costly prospect for mass production) but the quality of product is top tier and one can produce some incredible live resins when the extraction is done correctly and with care. It is an excellent alternative for people who wish to make smaller, less frequent batches of concentrates. For this method, you will need the following:

  • 1x Triclamp sanitary stainless steel spool (1.5” diameter, length depending on how much material you wish to run, we suggest anywhere from 6”-36”)
  • 1x Triclamp VITON screen gasket 20 mesh (1.5” diameter)
  • 1x Triclamp VITON gasket (1.5” diameter)
  • 2x Triclamp top cap w/ lance valve (matching diameter)closed-column-pressure-extractor-90-gram-107_1
  • 2x Single pin triclamp (bestvacs includes one with legs welded on)

( sells all of the above as a kit starting at $170)

  • 1x FJC vacuum pump, 1.5cfm and ($80 at Harbor Freight)
  • 1x vacuum chamber and appropriate vacuum hosing (you can try to make your own but good ones can be purchased for $100 online)
  • 1x case of butane (Whip-it! Sells the most pure canisters and they contain 400ml whereas most other brands come in 300ml canisters)
  • 1x pyrex dish
  • 1x Parchment paper
  • 1x Dank marijuanas, preferably freshly cut and frozen buds for live resin.
  • (optional) a pot of hot water a.k.a. a hot water bath.
  • (optional) dry ice and a cooler / container that will fit your spool with the end caps on.

The dry ice is particularly important if you wish to make live resin. If using cured buds, the cooling process is less essential but will still help create a lighter, more desirable extract.


frozen buds are easier to break down into small particles without grinding, dry ice gets the job done in minutes

Step 1: Prepare Buds Collect your plant material use your hands to break down larger nugs into a more manageable size as we will be packing the plant material into the stainless steel spool / column. You want to avoid grinding the buds because cutting the plant cell wall will allow chlorophyll to be more readily extracted by our butane resulting in a darker color and harsher taste (remember, all THC is on the OUTSIDE of the plant leaf in the trichomes!). Frozen buds are particularly brittle and easy to “nug bust” by hand in a plastic bag so even if you aren’t making live resin with fresh frozen buds, we recommend you freeze your plant material anyway (remember to remove as much air as possible from the bag to reduce the formation of ice crystals)

Step 2: Pack the Column Now that your buds are broken down into ~5mm particles, you’ll want to gently pack your stainless steel column with the mesh screen clamped to the bottom to prevent buds from falling all the way through. The key is to not pack the tube too tightly or else butane will form channels in the column and some buds won’t come in contact with the solvent. Use a rod of some kind to tamp down the plant material in the tube every few grams or so to ensure even packing. Once the column is packed completely, secure the final gasket and top cap with your second clamp and close both valves on either end of your extractor. If you are making live resin or have dry ice and a cooler available, you should allow your tube to cool under the dry ice for at least 20 minutes to ensure buds (and residual water) inside are completely frozen. WARNING: the metal will be cold enough to burn your skin, use insulated gloves (or oven mits) to protect your hands!


Butane can be injected directly into the top valve

Step 3: Vacuum and Extraction Time to use that vacuum pump! Attach the vacuum to the bottom of the extractor (the side with the mesh screen) using your vacuum hose, open the bottom valve and pull vacuum on your extractor column. It shouldn’t take more than a second and you will be able to hear the vacuum make a softer gurgle once its reached maximum vacuum. Cycle the valve (open and close it) twice to make sure you’ve pulled as much vacuum as you can, then close the valve and turn off the vacuum pump (the FJC model allows you to release pressure via a screwable cap where the hose attaches, this will make it easier to remove the hose from your extractor once its under vac). Now it’s time to make the magic happen! Selecting the appropriate adapter from the butane canister cap you can directly inject butane into the top of the extractor by opening the valve. The negative pressure will suck butane into the column so be sure your canister is releasing butane just before you open the top valve on your extractor (or else you’ll suck in air which takes up butane space!). Listen closely to the butane canister— once the column is fully pressurized with butane you will hear the butane stop flowing from the canister. You may need to use more than one canister depending on how big your column is. After the column has been fully pressurized with butane, we suggest you place the entire primed extractor back into your dry ice cooler (if you have one/ are making live resin). The cold temperature reduces the solubility of water and other undesirables in butane which always leads to lighter colored, more desirable extracts.


Mother liquor ready for vac chamber

Step 4:  Separate Mother Liquor After about 45 minutes, your extraction will have reached optimal completeness. Remove your extractor from the cold and with your pyrex dish placed carefully underneath your bottom valve, slowly and gently turn the valve so butane begins to drip into the dish. If you release the valve too quickly, butane will spew out and create a giant, flammable, sticky mess. Controlled flow is key! Cycle the valve (open and close it) when the butane stream starts to sputter to allow gasses from the top of the column to push liquid down through the bottom. When there’s little butane left, place the column outside and release both valves to allow residual butane gas to escape. You now have a pyrex dish filled with our butane mother liquor and it should have a vibrant yellow color to it. You can attempt to try another run with the spent material but its rarely worth the solvent required as the first extraction tends to capture 80-90% of the desired cannabinoids.


Purged live resin– incredible flavor and potency, no fancy system required

Step 5: Purge the Solvent The final step is the removal of excess butane which can be detected by taste at even a few hundred ppm. Leaving your pyrex dish of mother liquor in a well ventilated area will allow much of the butane to evaporate off but to speed things up we recommend placing your pyrex dish in a another bowl of shallow warm water (remember, butane is highly flammable so be sure the dish is nowhere near any open flames— warm the water up elsewhere!) Once the liquid has reduced substantially (but not completely), its recommended to pour off the thickening resin into a dish lined with parchment paper so your final product is easier to remove. All that’s left is to throw this dish into your vacuum chamber and pull the chamber down to about -28 mmHG (or as far as you can take it). Most people like to leave it under vacuum for as long as 24 hours but you can achieve a faster purge by cycling the pressure of the chamber every hour or so (placing your chamber in a warm water bath will also speed things up). You should be left with a beautiful, golden terpy sap! The final test is the taste test (don’t worry, butane is essentially non-toxic) and you will be able to tell if your extraction needs some extra purging or if you did things just right!

It can seem a bit overwhelming at first but the process is rather straightforward. In short, the best extractions are done as cold as possible with the strongest, freshest material one can find. Cured buds will produce less tasty, colorful extracts but this “closed column” method both reduces the amount of butane necessary and provides an significantly safer method to open blasting (albeit slightly more complicated and expensive). Of course unless you have access to cheap, high quality bud… it’s almost always more economical (and safer) to purchase from the experts! Remember, you can go to jail for making this stuff (but not necessarily possessing it). Consider your risks carefully and stay lifted!

Absolute Shatter: Make Your Own!

AbsoluteShatter - 2

Alright dabbers, let’s face it: most of us just can’t puff on live resin all the time. For those of you who live in states where medical marijuana is outlawed, it can be particularly difficult to find clean concentrates of reasonably high quality. Even in California, it’s not uncommon for people to settle for darker, harsher, less expensive concentrates processed under less-than-optimal conditions when options are slim or money is tight.

Luckily, there are several processing methods one can use to clean these concentrates— one method, commonly referred to now as “winterization,” is particularly safe and can be used to further purify even high-quality concentrates.


Butane-extracted hash oil tends to be a mix of cannabinoids, terpenes, lipids and other plant waxes that get pulled out by the solvent during extraction.

In order to separate the active cannabinoids and terpenes from inactive plant waxes via winterization, the concentrate must be redissolved in a new solvent (ethanol aka grain alcohol) that is liquid at room temperature so its solvability can be more easily manipulated by temperature.

Once the concentrate is dissolved, the mixture can be cooled such that the inactive waxes and lipids precipitate out of the solution (form solids) which can then be filtered, leaving you with a pure cannabinoid/terpenoid mixture.

The resulting resin is known as absolute shatter because it contains no inactive impurities.

Make Absolute Shatter

In order to convert your concentrate (any kind of hash!) into absolute shatter, you’ll need the following:

Grain Alcohol (Everclear)

(optional) 5A molecular sieves if you only obtain 151 proof Everclear

Metal funnel

Round coffee filters


hotplate or a hot water bath (pot of water)

Glass containers

(optional) A/C vac and a vacuum chamber, preferably with a cold trap

Step 1: Preparation

AbsoluteShatter - 1First about the alcohol: if you live in a state where you can obtain 190 proof grain alcohol then all you have to do is buy a bottle and you’re ready to go!

Those of us who can only obtain 151 proof are wise to purchase a few lbs of molecular sieves from a legitimate lab supply store online in order to dry out 151 proof alcohol.

Molecular sieves are zeolite pebbles with pores just big enough to trap water molecules. Slowly pour the alcohol into a mason jar (preferably cooling in ice, the reaction gets HOT!) and let it sit overnight to allow particles to settle at the bottom and the water to be trapped by the sieves… you can leave the alcohol in that container until you’ve used it all (at which point you should burn off the remaining alcohol outside and then bake the sieves in the oven at max heat for a few hours to dry them out…. 

Be careful not to put alcohol
soaked sieves in the oven, the fumes can ignite and pop the oven door open… dry them or soak them in water first)

Step 2: Dissolution and Separation

Once your alcohol is ready, it’s time to get to it. Combine the alcohol and concentrate in a glass container and heat it up with your hotplate or water bath such that all solid particles have dissolved, it takes a few minutes.AbsoluteShatter - 11

I’ve found about 30ml of alcohol per gram concentrate is sufficient, it’s preferable to use as little alcohol as possible since you’ll be evaporating it off later.

After your concentrate has fully dissolved in the hot alcohol, cover the container and carefully place it in the freezer overnight along with the funnel and another container— we need these to be cold.

When you come back in the morning, you will see some solids floating in solution. Those are the inactive waxes! Time to filter these out.

Fold the coffee filter in half then in half again so it’s a quarter circle.

AbsoluteShatter - 16

With the pointy side facing down, pull out a single of the filter so it forms a cone-shaped pocket like those cheap cups you see in office water coolersAbsoluteShatter - 17

Stick this in the frozen funnel and let it sit in the freezer for a few minutes to make sure it’s cold.

Now you’ll want to position the funnel-with-filter so its resting over your empty frozen container and  slowly pour your alcohol-concentrate mixture through the filter.AbsoluteShatter - 22

You’ll want to use a mason jar or some other container that makes it easy to rest the funnel and let the solution filter with the freezer door closed.

AbsoluteShatter - 21

If the solution warms up, the waxes will dissolve back into solution… the colder the better!

Step 3: Evaporation

You will be left with wax residue in the filter (throw this away) and a container full of frozen mother liquor full of your purified concentrate. All you have to do is pour this liquid into a dish and evaporate off the alcohol and you’ll be home free! There are two ways to do this:

Method 1: (no vac) if you pour the liquor off into a thin layer, the alcohol will evaporate off with just a little air circulation (you can put it somewhere warm to speed things up).

AbsoluteShatter - 27

Method 2: you can use a vacuum chamber to “cold boil” off the alcohol but if your pump uses vacuum oil, a cold trap is advised to capture alcohol fumes which quickly ruin clean pump oil.

Check the consistency, it should form a fairly stable shatter once fully purged (and even if not fully purged, you’re just vaporizing small amounts of ethanol which reacts with water) and even darker absolute shatter tends to be exceptionally smooth and enjoyable since no long plant molecules are being burned.

As always, use an abundance of caution (with regards to safety and publicity)! Alcohol is still flammable! But don’t be afraid to try this process on a small scale if you have a hard time finding good quality concentrate.

Stay safe, stay educated, happy dabbing!

Turn Kief into Hash with a DIY Pollen Press

kief and hashKief
— most tokers have a small collection of these coveted resin glands sitting in their grinder (especially if said grinder comes with a ‘pollinator’ or ‘kief catcher’) but it often goes unsmoked due in part to how difficult it is to handle. Even when kief does get smoked, its often wasted as the fine powder gets sucked through the bowl or joint without being heated. This problem is what inspired the most ancient form of hash making as cultivators learned to heat and press this kief into bricks of hashish.

Fast-forward several hundred years and we’re still using similar methods to turn kief into easier-to-handle hash via a device that’s known as a “pollen press.” A pollen press is essentially a vice that compresses “pollen” (aka kief) into pucks of hash (not unlike how a ‘pill press’ is used to form pills). In 2015, there are an abundance of different commercial pollen presses online for as little $10 but if you aren’t generating enough kief to warrant buying a pollen press of your very own, that doesn’t mean you can’t press your own hash!

We’ve compiled three DIY methods to turn your kief into hash so you don’t have to keep watching your hard-earned stash get wasted!

Step On It

This is the method you’ll hear from the real weed veterans and hippies— fold the kief into a piece of wax or parchment paper and stick it in the heel of your shoe. As you walk around, the heat and pressure from your foot will press the kief into a nice little slab of shoe hash! This method works wonders if you don’t mind your shoes smelling like hash / your hash smelling like feet (pro tip: use clean shoes and socks!).

Build Your Own Pollen Press

You can easily press pollen with an adjustable vice or clamp similar to the shoe method by folding your kief into some wax paper and applying a good amount of pressure for a few minutes but in case you don’t have such tools lying around, here’s the simplest DIY pollen press that can be made with common house-hold materials:

Materials: A small piece of paper, scotch tape, two unsharpened pencilspencils, tape, paper for pollen press

Step 1: Cut the paper so its no bigger than 2”x2” and make sure the ends of your unsharpened pencils are as flat and clean as possible.

Step 2: Wrap the paper around one of the pencils as tightly as possible and tape the paper to itself so it remains wrapped around the pencil.pollen press step one

Step 3: Slide this paper cylinder half-way off the flat end of the pencil it’s wrapped around and scoop kief into the newly formed chamber.pollen press kiefscoop kief

Step 4: Insert the flat end of the other pencil into the open side of the cylinder and apply steady pressure using a table to anchor one end of the pencil-cylinder-pencil setup for 10-20 seconds.

smash kief

Step 5: Stop applying pressure, remove one pencil and slide the cylinder down the body of the other pencil, you should have a small disk of pressed kief sitting on the top! Peel off and enjoy.


kief pressed


With dabs having taken over the hash-smoking world, its often desirable to have a hash that can be consumed using a nail or similar smoking implement. In this case, pollen needs to be both pressed and heated so that resin can be released from the trichome heads into a sappier, dabbable product. Though careful temperature control is critical for obtaining a product high in terpenes, the process is as simple as using a hair straightener to heat and press some kief (or bud) in between a piece of parchment paper. That’s it! You’ll see the rosin begin to form as a golden sap on the inside of the paper.

Don’t let that kief go to waste! If you don’t feel like spending the money on a pollen press, be sure to use of these methods to convert that stash into sweet, sweet hash!

If the pencils aren’t cutting it for you, and you have a little dough to spare, here is a pollen press for only $14 by RAW:

Simple Step-by-Step Guide For Making Bubble Hash

bubble hash

How To Make Your Own Hash Oil Capsules

canna capsulesConsuming cannabis orally is one of the most effective ways to benefit from its medicinal properties. In contrast to smoking or vaping where a majority of cannabinoids remain unabsorbed by the lungs, edibles allow the body to absorb ~95% of all active cannabinoids which allows for less material to be used to achieve the desired effects.

While there are many different edibles available in all kind of forms and flavors, there’s no denying the simple medicinal qualities of a tasteless, odorless hash oil capsule. Hash oil capsules are essentially that– cellulose/gelatin capsules filled with a measured quantity activated hash oil. These pills offer the most simple, medicinal approach to edibles as they don’t require refrigeration, have more consistent potency and are easier to dose than traditional baked edibles (they also tend to be hypo-allergenic).

Preparing Your Own Capsules Making your own hash oil capsules is a very simple, straightforward process. The main ingredients you’ll need are:

  1. Medicinal Cannabis / Keif / Hash
  2. Empty Gel Capsules (available at your local health food store, #00 is the biggest and easiest to work with)
  3. Coconut Oil
  4. Crock Pot / double boiler / a pot and a metal bowl that fits inside

It’s also advised that you have the following to avoid a giant sticky mess:

  1. A syringe for dispensing your oil into capsules (available at your local drugstore)
  2. A capsule “filling machine” or holder to hold your capsules in place while you fill them, should be available where you find the gel caps.

Similar to our cannabutter tutorial, you need to activate the THC (via decarboxylation) before it will be effective orally. All you have to do is combine the coconut oil and cannabis in your crock pot and heat it around 220°F for between one and two hours. If you don’t have a crock pot, you can just add the ingredients to a metal bowl and carefully immerse the bottom of that into a pot of boiling water for the same amount of time; water boils at ~212°F which is an optimal temperature to decarboxylate over about an hour and a half. Some people opt to use cheesecloth when using ground bud in order to strain the final product but I’ve found this to be an unnecessarily messy step that has little to no benefit on the final product and may actually adversely affect potency.

Once your oil has been properly decarboxylated, all one needs to do is set up some open capsules in the capsule filler/holder and use the syringe to fill the capsules with anywhere between .05g and .1g of hash oil. These capsules can be very potent so be careful when trying them for the first time, if you find you’ve made them too potent simply dilute with more coconut oil and re-cap. With edibles, less is more (one can always have a second or third) so you may want to start with approximately 1g of hash or kief (2g of bud) for every 2 teaspoons of coconut oil and adjust to preference from there. Get Medicated While some people get fancy with additives like soy lecithin, this recipe offers the most basic, simple, effective method for creating your own odorless, flavorless hash oil capsules.

Remember that it’s always best to eat something before taking hash oil capsules to stimulate the digestive tract and be sure to wait an hour or so after trying one to determine if you’re medicated enough… these capsules can creep up on you pretty hard!

How To Properly Season Your Titanium Nail


Keep it Natural

Although there is often a debate concerning the various methods of seasoning your dab nail, some methods work better than others. My opinion has always been to take a natural and balanced approach. Simply by using your titanium nail at low temperatures can build a natural seasoned layer, which serves not only as a protection against oxidation, but also as a way of enhancing the flavor of your medicated concentrates upon inhalation. By applying extracts at mild temperatures between (275-350 degrees Fahrenheit) you’ll be able to create an even, more balanced layer compared to extracts exposed to a higher heating intensity. Less is better in some cases. Dabbing large amounts of concentrates in one hit on an extremely hot titanium nail causes your dabs to vaporize instead of season. This is an important concept to retain while using dabs, especially when butane and propane lighters are involved.

Heating Retention Falsehoods

Borosilicate’s conductivity value is 1.14 W/(Mk), quartz’s value is 1.3W/(Mk) and pure titanium is 21.9 W/(MK). It’s easy to assume that titanium nails have a better retention to heat than borosilicate and quartz based on these numbers; however, this is simply not the case. Titanium can heat up your dabs much faster but they do not retain more heat. Case in point. If you heat titanium for thirty seconds using a butane torch and then heat a glass nail using the same method for the same amount of time, titanium will get much faster. The reason being isn’t because the glass couldn’t retain heat, but because the glass wasn’t heated for a long enough time, due to its low thermal conductivity value compared to that of titanium.  As a good rule of thumb, and based on thermal conductivity alone, it’s safe to say that titanium has a higher thermal conductivity than glass or quartz but not a better retainer of heat.


Don’t Overheat Your Nail!

According to certain scientific sources, it’s ideal for titanium to be cooled just below its Leidenfrost point. Just in case you’re not familiar with scientific terminology, the Leidenfrost point refers to the lowest point that vaporization can occur on a surface, allowing for the entirety of that surface to be covered with vapor. Studies have indicated that water’s Leidenfrost point is approximately 339.8 degrees F on polished surfaces and 504.F on rough surfaces. Based on this info, we can conclude that a brand new titanium nail can be heated for about 20-25 seconds until it’s about 25% red hot. Applying dabs to a nail that’s between 350-400 degrees is the ideal temp for keeping flavor and under the temperature of releasing titanium oxide gas.

How To Effectively Clean Your Dab Rig


It’s inevitable– dab rigs get gunked up after sufficient use and at some point down the road, every glass-owner needs to learn how to effectively clean their setup. A dirty piece not only looks and smells bad, it affects flavor and can potentially reduce the amount of vapor actually inhaled. Though there are several products marketed specifically for cleaning pipes, the best method is to use a safe, inexpensive polar organic solvent.

Cleaning The Nail

cleaning nailThe nail is the easiest part of the rig to clean but can be difficult to remove as the glass from your rig may have expanded into the nail creating a tight seal. Just lightly heat the nail at the base and gripping from the top using tongs (or better, forceps if you can find them) gently twist the nail loose.

Glass and ceramic nails need only be lightly heated (enough to liquify any offending resin) and wiped with a cotton swab. Titanium nails can be placed on a heat resistant surface (like stone or tile) and heated until glowing red which will carbonize any residue (like a cast iron skillet) and cause excess to flake away upon cooling (you might observe an attractive blue tint to the excess carbon).

Once your nail is hot, be sure to carefully use a cotton swab to clean the underside where the nail makes contact with your rig. Do not use your bare hands to hold the nail at point during the process… trust me, it’s hot (personal experience).

Cleaning The Rig

Regardless of how complicated your rig is, the two best solvents for cleaning glass are Acetone and Isopropyl Alcohol. Acetone can be purchased at the drugstore as clear “nail polish remover” and works almost instantaneously (it’s what chemists use to clean their glassware in the lab) but it smells and shouldn’t be dumped down the drain. Additionally, most nail polish contains “denatonium benzoate” which leaves a residue and is unpleasantly bitter when present even in a few ppm (parts per million) so additional washing with soap and water may be required.

Isopropyl alcohol, while not as vigorous a cleaner as acetone, can also be found at the drugstore as pure as 91% and makes for a great solvent which is very rarely tainted with bitterants like denatonium benzoate (though drinking isopropyl will definitely make you feel terrible). Simply pour it in your rig, shake and wait. A soaked cotton swab can be used for trouble areas. If your rig has particularly bad build up in a hard-to-reach spot, a little salt can be used as an agitator in addition to alcohol but in those situations it’s almost always more effective to resort to acetone (with a thorough wash afterwards).

Basically, isopropyl is for regular grime, acetone is for when you’ve been particularly neglectful. To finish up, let the solvent evaporate and then do a final rinse with water. If you rinse with water before all the acetone/isopropyl has evaporated, you may end up with while scaling on the sides from precipitate in the water. To remedy, just rinse with solvent and let it dry completely before rinsing with water again.

Keep It Clean

Once you’re taking a dab from your freshly cleaned piece, you’ll probably want life to be that way all the time (this is understandable). Though it may take a little training, its important to remember that regular maintenance goes a long way towards keeping your rig clean. Change the water every time you sesh and try not to let your rig develop a solid layer of slime in between cleanings. Remember, dabbing isn’t like smoking– all that resin inside your rig is decarboxylated, re-condensed hash oil that didn’t make it into your lungs. A clean rig develops less build-up!

If you are ready to upgrade your rig, or would like to add another dab rig to your collection, take a look at these dab rigs for cheap.

How To Use A Nectar Collector In 7 Simple Steps + Bonus Review

NECTAR-COLLECTORNectar collectors for the most part, have only been around for the past year or so, but are starting to gain popularity as more and more  people discover this new dynamic method of vaporizing dabs. This new style of dabbing, takes user experience to the next level, by offering a unique vertical vaporizing process that allows  you to gauge your dab intake perfectly every time, without having to worry about excess concentrates being wasted during your hits.

Most nectar collectors on the market today are relatively expensive, ranging in price from $100, of upwards to $1,000, depending on what brand name you buy and which dab accessories come with them. If you’re lucky, you might come across a low priced, yet highly effective nectar collector from an online wholesale smoke shop, but for the most part, they tend to be on the costly side.

nectar collector kit

At first glance, the nectar collector looks like a probing device from an alien spaceship. The glass body is shaped like a syringe and usually features an embedded percolator, that can be used as a filtration device when water is applied. Accompanying the base are a glass mouthpiece that slides into the top, and a nectar collector titanium tip, that is used unconventionally, as a dab nail. Some nectar collector kits also come equipped with a wax dish, such as this one, that is used as a launch pad, for inserting the titanium tip into finely extracted medical concentrates upon inhalation. The more high end nectar collectors typically come with a rotating metal pivoting stand, that assists in the vertical vaporizing process, once inserted into dabs.

How to Use A Nectar Collector In 7 Simple Steps


Step 1: Add Water to the Base

Tip #1: Fill the base slowly with water, making sure that it filled about halfway, allowing for the best percolation.

Tip #2: Make sure that the glass mouthpiece and titanium tip are removed before filling with water so that water won’t get trapped in the tip.

pour water nectar collector

Step 2: Check Water Level

Tip: Make sure water level is a little less than half-way full to allow for optimal percolation.

nectar collector water level

 Step 3: Add Glass Mouthpiece to Base

Tip: A small amount of joint wax can be applied to the base in order to prevent the mouthpiece from sliding in place during use.

nectar collector mouth piece

Step 4: Add Nectar Collector Titanium Tip to Base

Tip: Joint wax can be applied as a faint adhesive to the inside of the tip after being heated with a torch, to keep it in place during use.

nectar collector tip

 Assembled Nectar Collector

nectar collector assembled

(Ready for take-off)*

Step 5: Heat Titanium Tip Gently With Butane Torch Until It Has A Light Red Glow

Tip #1: Be careful not to overheat the tip as excessive heating can cause cracking.

Tip #2: Hold the nectar collector horizontally while heating to avoid leaks.nectar collector titanium

(Don’t Be A Dumbass and Burn Yourself or Your Friends!)

Step 6: Inhale While Tip Is Heated, and Submerge Tip in Dabs

heated tip

 (The kit that we purchased came with a glass wax dish)

Tip: The nectar collector titanium tip allows you to use just the amount of dabs needed for your hit, so don’t waste your supply!

Step 7: Don’t Forget to Exhale!

exhale nectar collector

6″ Mini Nectar Collector 10mm Review

Besides the titanium tip and glass mouthpiece, this nectar collector kit features a wax dish for storing dabs in between hits.The nectar collector itself, is 6 inches in length and has a 10mm sized titanium nail. The design is sleek and clean in appearance, and is made with durable borosilicate glass, which is known for it’s high resistance to extreme heat. The only downside to using this piece is the fact that it doesn’t come with a rotating metal swivel stand, as some of the more high end nectar collectors have, but that aside, this piece does it all. While using this device we experienced no issues during the assembly process and the hits were very clean and filtered thanks to the mini percolator. We filled the water too high the first time, but it was an easy fix. All in all, this nectar collector gets the job done at a fraction of the price that you’d normally pay for your average nectar collector, and it makes for an ideal buy, especially if you’re into dabbing or simply want a cheap alternative to your every day dab rig.

The nectar collector featured in this review:

How To Make Perfect Cannabutter Every Time

It’s always disappointing when your edibles don’t work and regardless of where they came from, the problem is usually that THC was not infused properly. THC is a fat-soluble molecule meaning it can be dissolved into  butter to form weed butter or cannabutter but many of the popular methods circulating on the internet contain serious procedural flaws that yield disappointing and unreliable results (most of which have to do with temperature control).

With this one-pot method, you will be able to make perfect cannabutter every time– it’s low mess and we’ve got the science to support why this is the best method for making cannabutter. So without further adieu…

Step 1: Gather Materials

You’ll need:
1. Butter (for this tutorial we’ll use 1 stick aka 1/4 lb)
2. Marijuana, preferably mids or higher, an 1/8th per stick of butter (you can adjust this to taste… if I’m making smaller edibles like cookies I like to make them weaker so you can eat more without going full-space-cadet)
3. A pot
4. Water
5. A Grinder

Step 2: Boil The Water

Fill your pot about half full of water and bring it to a boil. While that’s heating up, grind up the weed to maximize the surface area that will come in contact with the butter (this will increase the efficiency of our extraction).

Step 3: The Extraction

This is where the magic happens! Once the water has reached a rolling boil, add your ground-up weed and butter and throw a lid on there (our pot above could use some more water). Water boils at 212°F and will not get much hotter (even with the lid on) and as it just so happens, this is an excellent temperature for extracting and decarboxylating THCA to its psychoactive form THC. Caution: Watch the heat level! Maintain a boil, but make sure that the heat is not so high that it will cause the water and ingredients to boil over. Below is a chart showing the rate of decarboxylation of THCA suspended in n-hexane with respect to time:

as you can see, too little heat leads to significant amounts of unactivated THC but too much heat for too much time causes a degradation to the overall THC content. Since a little decarboxylation will take place during the process of baking, the ideal cannabutter is not 100% decarboxylated.As both theoretical and experimental data suggests, it takes ~90 minutes to achieve optimal extraction and decarboxylation of the raw plant material.

Step 4: Be Cool, Baby!


Make sure the pot cools off before sticking it in the fridge where you keep your food

After you’ve boiled the water and butter and weed for 90 minutes, take it off the stove and let it cool off a bit before setting it in your fridge (you don’t want to heat your fridge up too much now!). You only have to leave it in for a few hours but I tend to leave it overnight. Some people prefer to pour the butter and water through a strainer or cheese-cloth into another container (to filter out some of the plant material)… but then this wouldn’t be a one-pot extraction would it? Besides, who needs another mess to clean up?

Step 5: Final Product

Once the pot is chilled you’ll now have a beautiful green disk of cannabutter floating on top of the water with most of the plant material sitting on the bottom of the pot. Carefully remove the disk with a knife by cutting around the edges until you can lift it out of the pot. Don’t worry if it breaks into the pieces, they’ll just float on top of the water so you can fish them out with a fork or spoon. You’ll probably have some plant material stuck to the underside of your cannabutter disk– I just lightly scrape this off with a knife. I don’t go crazy about getting every little speck out because its not noticeable in the final baked product and sometimes… I’ll just leave it leafy to add a hint of earthiness and weediness to chocolate edibles (seriously! It’s pretty subtle).

Step 6: Bake And Be Baked

That’s it! Substitute this cannabutter into your favorite recipes and see what you like! (pro tip: 1 stick of butter = 1/2 cup of shortening, make sure to mix everything really well or some bites will be stronger than others). Remember that internal baking temperatures are always much lower than what you set your oven at (cookies tend to reach internal temps of 200°F) so do not bake at a lower temperature in an attempt to avoid degrading the THC! If anything, baking at regular temperatures will help decarboxylate any remaining THCA into THC!

I hope this method serves you well! No more ruining crock pots or sitting over a hot pan of oil just to get sub-standard results… 90 minutes with the lid on and stick it in the fridge– you’re done!